Sweet spring with NRebozo’s squash blossom mole
Usually, we cover the news of food and restaurants in the area. In this new series, we are going to slow down and savor flavors that make our mouths water. Each month we will feature a single dish that a reader loves. I’ll sit down with that reader and the chef or owner of the restaurant and talk about what makes the recipe special.
Our inaugural dish is a mole at NRebozo, 7403 Madison St. in Forest Park. Oak Parker Lynette Hoag is a regular diner at the restaurant and always looks forward to seeing which of Chef Paco’s mole creations are on the menu. One of her favorites is a spring sensation: squash blossom mole. She orders it with cheese enchiladas, though you can also get them filled with meat.
“It has a little spice, little bit of smoke. No heat. It’s a tiny bit sweet,” Hoag said. “It pairs perfectly with the cheese. It’s a little butternut squash-y. I always like the texture of his moles. I would say it’s very smooth.”
It’s one of Chef Paco’s favorites as well.
“I have 40 moles. Every week we serve six. This one is special. I love it. It’s the zucchini flower, flor de calabaza,” said Chef Paco. “This flower is yellow. This is why it’s the color.”
What does it take to make this dish?
“In Mexico, people love zucchini flower. Here it’s hard because the flower is only for a couple of months. The zucchini flower in the United States, very expensive.” said owner and chef Paco Lopez.
Each year when the flowers hit the market, Chef Paco grabs them up to feature the dish as long as he can. Creating the mole takes up to eight hours.
“Also in this is onions, cilantro, lime and the secret is the chili guajillo,” Chef Paco said.
“The chili guajillo is the nice touch. It’s smoky. With the zucchini flower those together is working perfect. Because if you put another chili, it’s spicy. The idea is balance. Not super spicy, not super sweet,” he said.
Those ingredients are sauteed with garlic and tomatoes, then they all go into a blender. And then back on the stove to simmer.
“I go to a lot of Spanish or Mexican restaurants.” Hoag said. “They have one kind of mole, just the traditional chocolate mole. I’ve never seen anything close to these moles. I can’t imagine getting squash blossom mole anyplace else. This is fresh, silky.”
The goal for Chef Paco is, “…when you taste, close your eyes and say, ‘Oh my God, this is so delicious.’”
The mole options cycle through the seasons, so squash blossom mole will only be on the menu for a few weeks. The others currently available are pumpkin, broccoli, chocolate, habanero and peanut.
If you have a favorite dish that you’d like to see featured, drop us a line at eats@oakparkeats.com.
Get in on the flavor
7403 Madison St., Forest Park
Hours: Tuesday – Saturday 5 p.m. to 10 p.m.